Rolling Traveler

If you ever make it to Wroclaw, the administrative capital of Lower Silesia in Poland, make sure you keep an eye out for dwarfs when you’re sight-seeing in the city center. There are currently over 50 small statues of dwarfs scattered around the old town, each engaged in his own hobby, each representing a different aspect of the city or of Polish life and history. It’s quite a feat to find them all, but it can be done, even in a wheelchair. Actually, it may be even easier for a wheelchair user, cobblestoned streets notwithstanding - we’re used to keeping our eyes on the ground looking out for obstacles and other problems, so we’re more likely to spot these little guys. They are worth keeping an eye out, not only for the art and amusement of them, but also for the aspect of Polish history that inspired them.

I first traveled to Poland at the end of September 1994, a few years after the country had achieved full democratic status, and was building its free market economy. The period of Soviet Communist dominance still loomed large in people’s memories, and the effects of the years of economic depression and restrictions of civil liberties were still visible, although the signs were fading. I heard many stories of what it was like living under the communist government, especially about the early eighties, when the country was under martial law, with rationing, curfews and worse. I also heard many stories of the people who fought back and protested in different ways, contributing to the changes that would leave the country free to forge its own way.

One such protest group, Pomarańczowa Alternatywa ([pomaranCHOva alternaTIHva], the Orange Alternative), was founded in Wroclaw in the eighties by a man called Waldemar Fydrych. Initially, during the period of martial law (1981 to 1983), his protests took the form of graffiti depicting orange dwarfs, simple but by all accounts expressive drawings. As the decade went on, the organization grew, and protests were held in the form of happenings rooted in absurdity, word-play, nonsense and child-like behavior. The orange color and dwarf motifs continued to be important elements, and although these were not the only concepts the group used, they proved the most memorable.

(The original Papa Krasnal, and the blacksmith, Kuznik)

The dwarf statues in Wroclaw commemorate the Orange Alternative as an important part of the fabric of the city’s history and culture. The original dwarf statue, Papa Krasnal (Papa Dwarf, #20 on my map) appeared at the corner of ul. Swidnicka and ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego while I was still living in the city, but the others have been added since then. When a new one is added, posters are put up showing its appearance, but not giving its location, allowing people the chance to go dwarf hunting again. This seems to help keep the idea fresh, although at over 50 dwarfs, I think that may be a lost cause. As there are now so many, they are not quite as special as they were, and they can be a little overwhelming.

(Sisyphus and Sisyphus; and the pierogi-eating Pieroznik)

You have the choice to hunt for the dwarfs on your own, or to buy a map from the tourist office or any good local bookstore. The map I have is a good image of the city in and of itself, and the dwarfs locations are clearly marked with numbers. Each dwarf is pictured, and named and described in Polish, English and German. However, it’s already out of date, as it only shows 28 dwarfs: I have not seen a newer map yet, but I’m sure there is one. There is also a list of dwarfs with their addresses here. It is in Polish, unfortunately, but at least it’s a start.

If you’re searching without the map, let me give you at least the search area: from Wyspa Piasek in the north to ul. Teatralna in the south, and from the ul. Ruska-ul. Wlodkowica crossroads in the west all the way to Most Grunwaldzki in the east. The majority are in or near the main town square called the Rynek. There are a few dwarfs outside of this area, but this is where you’ll find the core members of the family.

(W-Sker, the Wheelchair Rider)

Most of the dwarfs are in wheelchair accessible locations, but a couple are hard to get to. Pracz Odranski (the Odra Washer, #3 on my map) is right down at the river’s edge, for example. One of the dwarfs is in a wheelchair himself: W-Skers (the Wheelchair Rider, #5 on my map), who plans to beat the dwarvish speed record in his self-propelled competitive wheelchair, and more power to him. I’ve often felt like trying for a land-speed record myself, and it’s good to see someone try, even if he is a stone dwarf.

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